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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.